Steep Climbing 101 (Part I): How To Train Body Tension
Aidan Roberts on Alphane (V17), photo by Sam Pratt.
In my coaching practice, I have noticed an equal split among climbers in their preference for slab climbing or steep climbing. I used to exclusively focus on steep climbing myself, neglecting other styles simply because I considered myself bad at them. My preference for powerful climbing on small holds led me to practice what I now call "ego climbing." Ego climbing will hinder your overall development as a climber.
We all have strengths and weaknesses. Working on your weak points and leaving your comfort zone is necessary for continued growth in climbing (and in all things!). If you are a beginner climber, your goal should be to climb as much as possible and get on a variety of styles to build up your technical and movement literacy.
If you are one to avoid climbing overhangs or simply looking to improve your steep climbing skills, keep reading! This blog series will explore all things steep climbing: body tension, using our feet and hips most efficiently on overhung terrain, and how to dominate dynamic and powerful moves. Let’s get into it part 1: How To Train Body Tension!
What is Body Tension?
When climbing on steep terrain, body tension is the name of the game. Body tension is the ability to maintain control of each movement as we climb, we can think about our whole kinetic chain being engaged as we move.
“Losing body tension” means that we are not engaging muscles that should be engaged. We have broken the chain, which results in less controlled movement. I’m sure many of us have experienced unexpectedly cutting feet while climbing, swinging around, maybe helicoptering, and trying so hard to get our feet back on the wall; That is one example of losing body tension. Ideally, we want to maintain utmost control as we move on the wall; This is way easier said than done.
“Body tension is largely driven by technique”
Although body tension sounds like a product of strength, it is largely driven by technique. Climbing is a full-body sport, but novice climbers tend to use their lower body passively; On flat terrain with big holds, this approach works just fine. However, on steep terrain and as we move up the grade ladder, this approach will falter; Instead, we should be digging into and pulling on footholds with our toes, pretending we are trying to rip them off the wall.
As we develop as climbers, we will learn when to be more engaged on the wall, and when we can afford to relax. During “cruxy” sections, we may have to climb more intently and aggressively, but there will be moments where we can climb more fluidly and relaxed. At the start of our climbing journey, we may constantly climb tense and scared, but with time and experience, we learn to apply our strength at the right time and intensity.
Is cutting feet a sign of poor body tension?
Nope! Sometimes, the best (possibly only) beta is to cut feet, but getting our feet back on the wall requires body tension and the ability to quickly and accurately latch onto footholds with our toes. Knowing when it is and is not necessary to cut our feet, and how to cut feet in the most controlled way, are skills that can be learned.
The most crucial elements of body tension are:
Foot placement: When using footholds on steep terrain, we must use our big toe to pull into holds, rather than simply pushing down on them. Doing so lets us get the most engagement out of our lower body. Try not to get into overly extended positions (unless it is necessary) since it is harder to maintain foot pressure in these positions. You should pay equal or more attention to your feet over your hands on the wall.
Hip positioning: Our hips are located right around our centre of gravity (COG), so manipulating our COG on the wall is vital. Typically, we want our hips to be close to the wall; If they are sagging out, we are likely pulling more with the arms than we need to and aren’t weighting our feet enough.
Core engagement: When we are in more extended or strenuous positions on the wall, core engagement is necessary. Weight lifters will brace their core before performing a lift by taking a breath and then holding it throughout the lift (this is the Valsava Maneuver), which helps them create more core stability and increases their strength and coordination. When executing big moves that require us to keep our feet, we may find the Valsava Maneuver helpful. But in any case, keeping good core engagement on the wall at all times helps us produce more force through our whole body, allowing us to utilize the strength we already possess.
Coordination: In this video exploring Body Tension, Siawn marks the difference between visual and kinesthetic focus. For example, by consciously increasing the pressure through our feet, we can establish a mind-muscle connection which allows us to generate more force in that specific area. The practice of cueing proves beneficial in many other climbing scenarios; We can instruct our body to perform a specific action, and it will respond accordingly. For example, if I need to stand on a small foothold, I will cue myself to trust the foothold and keep it for as long as possible.
On the climb Stake Your Claim (V10) in Red Rock. I had to stand on the tiniest foothold with my left foot to get the next hold and cued myself to trust and weight it as much as possible. After a few sessions of projecting, I came close, but no cigar!
How To Train Body Tension
Projecting Climbs That Require Body Tension
The first way to improve our body tension is to project climbs on steep terrain that requires us to keep tension through our body and maintain foot pressure the entire time; this means the handholds should be bad enough that if we cut our feet, we come off the wall. You can make up problems on a board or spray wall, or find problems that challenge you in this way.
The Foot Lock Drill
The second way to develop our body tension is the Foot Lock Drill. This drill is all about maintaining foot pressure through an entire climb. You can perform this drill as a part of your session or make it the focal point of your climbing session. Try to send 5-8 steep climbs that are a bit harder than your flash grade and do them all without cutting your feet. If you cut feet, you must let go and restart, as it won’t count towards your 5-8 climbs unless you send the climb while keeping your feet the whole time.
The Foot Loose Drill
The third way is to perform the Foot Loose Drill, essentially the opposite of the last drill mentioned. You want to intentionally cut feet every hand move and reposition them on the footholds in the correct position they need to be for you to execute the next move. This drill will teach you how to cut loose in a controlled manner, quickly reengage your lower body after cutting your feet, and improve your ability to accurately place your feet and pull into footholds on steep terrain. This drill can take the same structure as the last, so perform with 5-8 overhanging climbs around your flash grade as a whole climbing session or as part of a session.
Final Notes
Hopefully, you now have a better understanding of body tension and how to improve this aspect of your climbing.
Body tension is the ability to maintain control of our movements on the wall. As you move up the grades, you will become increasingly aware of the importance of engaging your entire body while climbing (i.e. you cannot campus your way through every climb or cut feet every move). When operating at your maximum, the margin of error is much smaller.
While strength training undoubtedly contributes to overall athletic capabilities, body tension is a skill acquired through practice, primarily on the wall. Give these drills a try and let me know what you think! I still encourage everyone to engage in strength training. Enhanced strength offers various benefits, such as increased resilience and a decreased risk of injuries. As discussed in this blog, body tension involves multiple elements, and there isn't one thing that can improve it or your climbing abilities all on its own.
References
Cowell, Kevin. “Climbing-Specific Body Tension.” The Climbing Doctor, 16 May 2023, theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-specific-body-tension-2/.
Hooper, Jason. “Are Climbers Wasting Their Time Training Core? (A Measured Argument).” Hooper’s Beta, Hooper’s Beta, 5 Sept. 2023, www.hoopersbeta.com/library/are-climbers-wasting-their-time-training-core-a-measured-argument.
McLeod, Dave. “What ‘body Tension’ Means.” Online Climbing Coach, Feb. 2020, onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/02/what-body-tension-means.html.
