My Climbing & Coaching Philosophy
Photo by Ilya Sarrosy
I have been working at a climbing gym for nearly seven years and have coached many climbers with varying motivation levels at different stages in their climbing journey. It is intriguing that some people quickly dive in deep and push themselves hard, while others prefer a more lighthearted approach.
We all view climbing through a lens influenced by our past experiences. We all climb for different reasons. Maybe we climb to get as strong as possible, or simply find the sport fun. Whatever the case, if we peel away the outer layer, the reason we climb is a lot more intricate. There is the climber who loves climbing and connecting with their friends in this strange and beautiful way or the climber who has finally found something that drives and motivates them like nothing else.
Our goals and motivations will shift throughout our climbing journey, mirroring our personal growth. I’ve experienced this firsthand in my climbing career, navigating through various phases and discovering new aspects of myself. In the beginning, we learn that the primary goal of the climber is to reach the top of the climb. The secondary goal is to learn the skills required to help you progress through the grades in your chosen discipline.
Mastering new techniques, uncovering your body's limits, and witnessing your progress in this unique way can be incredibly fulfilling. Climbing is a skill-based sport, so naturally, as your skills improve, so will your maximum grade. I observe a dichotomy in the climbing community between the grade-chasers and those who climb purely for the joy of it. However, there is a middle ground; you can strive to improve and climb harder in a healthy and rewarding way. I'm not suggesting it is easy to strike this balance; I certainly do not have it all figured out yet.
It takes practice, questioning your motivations, and being honest with yourself. I remember getting upset at least once per session if I could not do a climb that was “supposed” to be easy for me. I would make excuses and beat myself up. I wondered if all this time I was putting into climbing was worthwhile. This mentality stunted my climbing growth for a long time. Now, I understand that failing is learning. It’s okay to dip into frustration, but it's no longer productive when it leads to negative thoughts about yourself and disrupts your learning process.
Today, when I fall off a climb or cannot meet last week’s numbers for a specific lift, I do my best to view the situation objectively. I ask myself: What can I change for the next attempt to be better than the last (physical or focus/mental adjustment)? Am I feeling more fatigued or underrecovered today (if yes, I will adjust my session's intensity and try my best)?
I can’t claim all the credit for my climbing journey. I'm fortunate to have a partner who epitomizes logic and reason. He keeps me grounded when anxiety overrules rationality. I’m also grateful for the rest of my support system, as I can’t imagine where I'd be without them. We must find the people who uplift us and make life more enjoyable. Climbing is not a solo endeavour; it's a sport that thrives on camaraderie and mutual support.
As a coach, I am not here to tell you how you should view climbing or that you must do this exercise or train X times per week if you want to make fast and significant progress. I am here to support you at whichever point you are in your journey. As mentioned earlier, our goals and perspectives will inevitably evolve. I only started to care about pushing myself in climbing three years after being introduced to the sport. Maybe I’d be stronger and more skilled if I started earlier in my teen years. But it is also possible that my climbing journey might have taken a bitter turn if someone forced me to train for a goal that wasn’t mine.
My priority as a climbing coach is to help the athletes I work with find a sustainable and enjoyable training approach. I introduce them to the fundamentals of training for sport and the various training tools they can use to push their level. I show them that being an ambitious athlete is not incompatible with leading a busy lifestyle and provide them with a framework for training they can take when they go off on their own. It’s teamwork and problem-solving.
I climb and train because I feel strong, confident, and satisfied when working on a challenging climb that pushes my physical and mental capacity. I am almost always motivated to train hard and push myself (and maybe I take it too far sometimes). I didn’t know what passion felt like until I found climbing. Something about climbing clicked with me. Why do you climb?
